Why Sebastopol — not Chianti: as a winemaker is trying to create its own regional brand


To the wine farm of Pavel Shvets leads paved with fresh gravel road. With it stunning views of the village is in 15 km from Sevastopol, in the mountains near which the plant is located. The driver-the taxi driver (I got a woman) stopped several times to photograph the beauty.

Paul was born in Sevastopol for many years has lived in Moscow, worked as a sommelier. Owned a restaurant and trading company, which imported wine to Russia. However, seven years ago, he decided to move to Sebastopol.

— I wanted to create a private vineyard. Saw abroad is done. I understand that it’s difficult: you need to spend many years of effort, energy and money, but perhaps, ‘ he says. — I bought the land, planted a vineyard and moved here, to the Crimea, to live. I like that the town is small, beautiful, at least to date, and “broken-down”. But kompensiruet our nature, the weather, the sea, fish and more open people. I don’t like the flow of people as in Moscow.

Herbal tea for grapes

Place under your farm Paul picked up carefully by a slope high in the mountains so it was cooler. The seedlings were purchased in one of the best nurseries in the world. Footage collected bit by bit.

I love Pinot Noir and wanted to make wines of this type. I had originally planned to do something specific and searched the ground, picked up the grape varieties, clones, rootstocks. Technology and equipment bought to do a certain wine, he explains. — There is a special mode, the illumination of the bunches of leaves. It is connected with the soils, vine age, architecture of the Bush. There are so many variables that the resulting wine is like no other. Does not happen the same conditions anywhere the same, and every year is unique.

Shvets uses sophisticated technology without the use of poisons and chemicals. For example, grapes are treated with herbal teas from infusion of horsetail, chamomile, nettle, essential oils. The weather and soil condition experts the following with the help of a meteorological station installed in a vineyard.

— Data is sent here, Paul shows the program on the smartphone screen. Monitoring allows you to notice the conditions for the development of the disease and to immediately intervene. To analyze the chemical composition of the juice and berries during fermentation and aging used by other device.

— We monitor, record, analyze how changing certain parameters in order to predict what can be done with wine. Many operations in the vineyard and in the shop to avoid mistakes, to get certain aroma characteristics, — says Shvets.

Wine and shellfish

During bypass of the economy Paul raises from the earth the fossilized remnant of a giant clam — Ammonite.

— Bacteria, mold, various, yeast, fungi live in the soil in very large numbers. Depending on the chemistry of the soil obtained their population. When the grapes are collected, all these things are on the surface of berries and are involved in the process of wine — consume sugar, acid, aromatic components are converted into substances of a different nature, which can greatly affect the taste and aroma of wine — says Shvets.

With this technology do not wash the grapes at harvest. When the berries burst, whatever is on its surface, in contact with the juice and starts to “live”.

And then a colony of the Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast, which transforms sugar into alcohol, increases, produces so much alcohol that it kills all the others and they feel good and dobrijevic to the end. And the work that they have done is unique, it enables to obtain wines with a unique taste and aromatic characteristics, is unlike anything.

Casks of French oak, Portuguese cork

In the wine cellar — about 150 barrels in which wine is aged. There are barrels that cost $300, and there are over $2 thousand.

Market opportunities, according to him, even overlapping disadvantages for industry of Western sanctions, which the winemakers of the Peninsula are unable to import directly from France and Germany plants, barrels and equipment.

For example, we are now buying the seedlings abroad. Nurseries are not willing to enter into direct contracts with the Crimean and Sevastopol companies. We have to “strip” a mediation on the continent (the mainland of Russia — approx. TASS) to buy seedlings. It turns out much more expensive, longer, harder and more risk. This increases the cost by 5-10%. Everything else is the same.

Cluster failed

When Crimea joined Russia, Sweden came up with the idea of creating the Sevastopol wine-making cluster in the European canons.

— To make the region known popular brand, you need to invest a lot of money funds in advance. It needs to be associated with quality must be the style, the history, the philosophy would be shared by all winemakers. And most importantly, to the participants of this consortium, the self-regulatory organization complied with the standards and rules that none of us have discredited this common brand, ‘ he says.

In the end, only three of 20 Sevastopol winemakers decided to join the Union.

— Everyone has their own program. People in Russia can’t get together in the stairwell to paint — this is a big problem, ‘ Paul says.

While creating the region failed Shvets developing its own brand.

— I am very critical of its wines are, I can see the flaws. Burgundy is a Mecca. Cooler yet, no one does.

“I see no end in sight”

In a distant part of the farm is a veranda where you can enjoy tasting. To Shvets, a sommelier come from everywhere, first of all, from Moscow and St. Petersburg. In your business Pavel Shvets has already invested around €1-1,5 million About payback winemaker, he said not to worry.

— I’m not accountable to anyone — I have no loans, no partners. Was the money I invested, he says. — Did the road. Electricity spend. It’s a long investment. I see no end in sight. I love it here, we would like to make a perfect world here, closed, with all its components. Lacking only time.

Plans with Paul to build the farm to prepare their own compost and to work more intensively with the earth, to update equipment, to plant an additional 2.5 hectares of vineyards.

— Build something like a restaurant, shop. This is not a business. It’s a way of life that brings joy and pleasure, and the means to develop further, — said Shvets.

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